 |
| Infusion of Woad |
The essence of all beings is
earth
The essence of earth is water
The essence of water is plants
The essence of plants is the
human being.
Chandogya, from the Upanishads
There is magic in sowing a seed, nurturing the sprout,
reaping the leaf (or blossom, root, or stem), utilizing its essence in some aspect, recycling the waste, and starting the cycle over. There is power in that
cycle - creation, abundance, a reverence for and a connection to the Earth. Putting
your hands in the soil is like roots reaching out to partake in the divinity
that is our existence.
And when the sun is high, or when the moon is full, my roots
reach out to participate in that magical cycle.
Modern humans are like busy little bees - work, after school
sports, dance class, laundry, gym, dishes, traffic…the never-ending battle
against time and circumstance (that’s another type of cycle that my roots do
not reach out for). My point being is that many people think they have
no time to think about the many uses of herbs, much less grow them. It takes
time and effort to not only grow the herb, but to educate yourself on its uses
and contraindications. And depending on where you live, Mother Nature may or
may not play fair where weather and climate are concerned. You may not know of a local herb grower or farmer's market. However, the
awesomeness known as “The Internet” can make your herbal dreams a reality!
There are plenty of reputable sources from which to procure organics herbs,
seeds, resins, powders, oils, and the like and have it waiting at your door –
you know, the door you rush through with hands full of groceries and kids
dangling from your hip.
And now we get to where this post is going: Herbal
Infusions!
I think when many people think of Herbs, they think of their
culinary uses – and while taste alone is reason enough to appreciate them, Herbs
have myriad purposes and methods of use. I like to find ways to incorporate
herbs into all aspects of my life, whether it is cooking with them, treating a
sore throat or a stomachache, or in one of my soap or salve formulas. A really
simple way to incorporate herbs into your daily life is through Herbal
Infusion. An infusion is the process of extracting the flavor, color, or
medicinal properties of an herb into an oil. Extracting into alcohol or
glycerin is called a “Tincture” or “Extract”, whereas a water infusion is
usually referred to as a tea or decoction. Herbal infusions can be used for
cooking and for salve, lotion, or soap making. Tinctures are usually used for
medicinal purposes. Extracts are normally for cooking or perfumery. Teas and
decoctions have a wide variety of uses, from consumption to fabric dyeing. If
scent is your goal, I would use an essential oil. In general, infusions will
not lend any scent to your soap or body product.
Essential Oils are a different matter all together, and
infusing oil with an herb does not render an “essential oil”. I see this term
used incorrectly all the time and wanted to clear that up.
For the purposes of this
blog, we’ll discuss using Herbal Infusions for soapmaking and for the use in
other leave-on body products, like salves, ointments, balms, lotions and
creams.
Herbal Infusions are a pretty simple process:
- Fill clean, sterile Mason jar (or recycled spaghetti sauce jar, or pickle jar, or…) with dry or fresh herb. A general proportion guideline is 250 g Dried or 500 g Fresh Herb : 750 ml Oil
- Pour oil of choice (Olive, Rice Bran, Safflower) into jar over herbs.
- Set jar in cool dark cabinet for 6 weeks or so, shaking every now and then to redistribute plant matter that settles to the bottom.
- After 6 weeks, strain plant matter out of oil and pour infused oil into clean sterile jar for later use.
Some sources will suggest heating your oils with your herbs
for a faster infusing method – just be sure that you do not overheat the oils
or the plant matter. Many herbs, especially those with blossoms, are very
volatile and heat can destroy any of the properties your were trying to
capture. Also, heat can break down chemical constituents of vegetable oils,
leaving them vulnerable to oxidation and rancidity. Some roots and barks
require heat to truly extract any of the useful constituents of the plant
matter. If your purpose is to extract the color from the herb and to use it in
a soap formula right away, the low heat method may suit your purpose just fine.
If it’s the nutrients you’re looking to extract, I highly suggest the cold
infusion method described above. Keep your infusions tightly sealed in a
dark and cool temperature stable environment. Most infusions, when properly made and stored,
should keep at least a year, but it's best to use them within 6 months. (If they start smelling like rancid oil,
dispose of them in a compost heap or your preferred environmental manner.)
To use an herbal infusion in your soap formula, you would sub out a portion of the same oil in your recipe (if your infusion is Olive Oil based, you would sub out some Olive Oil in your soap recipe) for the same amount of Infused Oil. The amount will be determined by your purpose.
For Example:
Soap Recipe:
300 g Olive Oil
100 g Castor Oil
300 g Coconut Oil
300 g Palm Oil
For a purple colorant, you could substitute 10% of your total oils for Alkanet Root Infused Olive Oil, so your recipe would now look like this:
200 g Olive Oil
100 g Alkanet Root Infused Olive Oil
100 g Castor Oil
300 g Coconut Oil
300 g Palm Oil
Some herbs you
may find useful in soap and body product making:
The information below is in no way to be misconstrued as
medical advice, and the advocation of herbs in this information is in reference
to topical use only. Please educate yourself on these herbs before using them.
Alkanet Root (Batschia Canescens): Also
known as Dyer’s Bugloss. Renders a Grey – Purple result in Cold Process Soap. Rattan jot (Onosma Hispidum) can be substituted.
Annato Seed (Bixa Orellana): Renders a
bright gold to orange shade in Cold Process Soap.
Yellowdock Root (Rumex Crispus): Renders
anywhere from a pale flesh/peach tone to a bright pink in Cold Process Soap.
 |
| Infusions of Yellowdock Root, Annatto Seed, and Alkanet Root |
Borage (Borago Officinalis): Rich in polyunsaturated
fats and very emollient. It is used for the treatment of eczema and other
chronic skin conditions.
Evening Primrose (Oenothera biennis):
The stem, leaf, and flower are used in infusions
for eczema and itchy skin conditions.
Chamomile (Matricaria Recutita): Renders
a pastel yellow in Cold Process Soap. In salves and creams, it soothes itchy
skin and eczema. Chamomile is in the ragweed family, so if you have a
ragweed allergy, you should avoid Chamomile.
Lemon Balm (Melissa Officinalis): An ointment
made with the Infusion of Lemon Balm is used to relieve the sting of insect
bites.
 |
| Infusions of Evening Primrose, Lemon Balm, Chamomile, and Borage |
Comfrey Root and Leaf (Symphytum Officinale):
Also known as Knitbone or Boneset. The leaves render a green color and the
roots a brown color in Cold Process Soap. Infused oil of leaves is used for
sprains and bruises. It is useful in the treatment of psoriasis and acne.
Red Clover (Trifolium Pratense): Used to treat skin conditions.
 |
| Infusions of Red Clover Blossoms and a synergistic blend of Comfrey, Nettle, and Borage |
Burdock Root (Arcticum Lappa): Useful
for skin conditions such as acne, infections and rashes. It is better used in
salves, ointments, balms, and creams.
Calendula (Calendula Officinalis): Also
known as “Marigold”, the flowers will render a pastel to bright yellow in Cold
Process Soap. The infused oil is used to make salves, ointments, and lotions.,
and is known to be an excellent remedy for the skin. It is antiseptic, and
useful with healing cuts, scrapes, burns, and fungal conditions.
Cayenne (Capsicum Frutescens): Use an
infusion of the pepper in a massage oil or ointment for rheumatic conditions. Do
NOT use on broken skin, children, or fragile skin!
Chickweed (Stellaria Media): An
infusion of the aerial parts is used to soothe irritated skin.
Dandelion (Taraxacum Officinale):
Infusion of the leaf renders a green shade to Cold Process Soap.
Indigo Root (Baptisia tinctoria): A little goes a long way! Renders a blue – navy/black
color in Cold Process Soap.
Lady’s Mantle (Alchemilla Vulgaris): A
known wound healer due to its astringent properties. The infusion is used in
balms, salves, and ointments.
Madder Root (Rubia Tinctorum): Renders
a dusty rose to maroon shade in Cold Process Soap.
Marshmallow (Althaea Officinalis): An
infusion made from the root is used for boils and abcesses. An infusion made
from the flowers is used for inflamed skin. Common Mallow (Malva Sylvestris)
has similar uses. They are both emollients.
Mullein (Verbascum Thapsus):
astringent and emollient, an infusion of the fresh flowers is said to be an
effective bactericide.
Neem (Azadirachta Indica): Also known
as the Margosa Tree. An infusion of the leaves is useful with acne, eczema, and
psoriasis. Use it in lotions, salves, and other leave-on products.
Nettle Leaf (Urtica Dioica): Renders a
nice green in Cold Process Soap. An ointment made from the infusion is used as
a treatment for eczema.
Paprika (Capsicum Annuum):
Renders an orange shade in Cold Process Soap.
Plantain (Plantago Major): Repairs
damaged tissue.
Rosemary (Rosmarinus Officinalis): Use
the infusion to make a lotion for achy muscles.
Sandalwood (Santalum Album): Red
Sandalwood Powder will produce a pink – maroon/purple shade in Cold Process
Soap. (This infusion will likely need heat to extract any color from the wood
or powdered Sandalwood)
Self-Heal (Prunella Vulgaris): It’s
astringent nature makes it useful for healing wounds. Studies show it may be
effective against a broad range of bacteria.
Spirulina (Algae): Renders a green to a
green blue color in Cold Process Soap.
St. John’s Wort (Hypericum Perforatum): The
leaves render a yellow color in Cold Process Soap. An infusion of the oil is
useful in creams for minor wounds and burns, and a cream can be made to relieve
cramps and neuralgia. Some people are very sensitive to St. John’s Wort and
it may interact with prescription medicines, even when used topically. Check
with your doctor before using this!
Turmeric (Curcuma
Longa): Renders a gold – orange hue in Cold
Process Soap.
Witch Hazel (Hamamelis Virginiana): An
infusion of the leaves is useful for making a lotion to soothe cysts and other
inflamed skin conditions. An infusion of the bark makes for a good ointment for
inflamed skin conditions.
Woad (Isatis Tinctoria):
Renders a gray to green/blue shade in Cold Process Soap.
Now that you have the hang of
Herbal Infusions, I’ll share a simple salve recipe to make use of your new
concoctions! As with all my recipes given, I will give it to you in
proportions, or parts, so that you can adjust the size to suit your needs,
whether that be in ounces or grams.
BASIC
SALVE RECIPE
This basic salve recipe can be used
for a gazillion purposes, like an ointment for bug bites, a cuticle treatment,
a chapped skin soother, skin protectant…the possibilities are endless! Just use
an herbal infusion that suits the purpose that the salve will be used for.
3 Parts Infused Oil
1 Part Beeswax (Or Vegan Wax Source of your choice, like Candelilla
)
For example:
1oz Comfrey Infused Oil
1 oz Borage Infused Oil
1 oz Nettle Infused Oil
1 oz Beeswax
1. Melt the beeswax in a double
boiler or crock pot on low – but let me warn you, beeswax can be a total pain
to clean up, so you may want to use one designated solely for this task.
I find that the small 6 oz crock
pots like the ones made for warm dips and appetizers work great for melting
beeswax (if it has a high/low setting). I use mine only to melt beeswax to
avoid cross contamination.
2. When wax is melted, add your
Infused Oil and stir until it looks fully incorporated.
3. Pour into sterile jars and allow
to cool before putting the lid on..
It really is pretty simple, right?
And the beauty of it is, if you
find the salve is too “stiff” for your purpose (too much wax), you can melt it
down and add a little more oil to get the consistency you want. If the salve is
too “loose” (too much oil), you can melt it and add a (tiny bit) more beeswax! Just remember, a little beeswax goes a long way!
Feeling really herbally inspired?
(I know you are!)
Try adding a few milliliters (or
drops, depending on the size of your batch) of Essential Oil to your melted
beeswax and oil mixture before pouring into jars to enhance the herbal
properties! Or to make this a lip balm, try adding a little cocoa butter (sub
out 1 part of the oil) to the mix before pouring it into your containers.
Consistency of the salve is a personal preference and is determined by the
purpose of the salve, so experiment until you get the texture, firmness, and
slip that you want. Make sure to take notes so that you can recreate your
masterpiece!
FOR
YOUR DRIED HERB NEEDS, I RECOMMEND MOUNTAIN ROSE HERBS
FOR
YOUR PLANT & SEED NEEDS, I RECOMMEND RICHTERS
Both
Mountain Rose Herbs and Richter’s have great information about herbs and their
uses on their website.
FOR
MORE INFORMATION ON HERBS AND THEIR USES:
