Single Oil Soap Experiment: Phase One

Dearest Blog Followers,
Remember a few posts back, when I mentioned I was "up to something" again? (http://alchemyandashes.blogspot.com/2013/01/im-up-to-somethingagain.html)
Well, I have accomplished that particular something, and am now ready to share those results with you! I will call these results "Phase One" because this will be an ongoing experiment to test the properties and qualities of the 15 soapmaking oils used in this experiment.

Let me catch you up on what I've done here:
I've taken 15 common soapmaking oils and created soap with 170 grams of each oil and a 41% Lye concentration -
1. Tallow
2. Rice Bran
3. Olive
4. Lard
5. Safflower
6. Soybean
7. Avocado
8. Palm
9. Corn
10. Sunflower
11. Grapeseed
12. Canola
13. Coconut
14. Peanut
15. Castor

 

After unmolding, I cut each bar in half (by hand, so they're not exact, but that is an insignificant detail as each were weighed separately) and labeled them with an assigned number, for blind study purposes, and an "A" or "B". Soaps labeled "A" will be cured in a dry bedroom closet. Soaps labeled "B" will be stored in a bathroom cabinet. Hopefully, by curing in separate areas we will be able to determine if curing conditions contribute to rancidity and longevity of soap.

Once each soap was unmolded, cut, and each part weighed (in grams), I washed my hands with part "B" soaps and pH tested part "A" soaps. After letting the part "B" soaps dry completely, they were boxed together in a cardboard box with the lid open and set inside a lower bathroom cabinet. Part "A" soaps were boxed together in the same kind of box with the lid shut, and set on the top shelf of a bedroom closet.

Before going into detail on the individual oils, let me share a few of the "constants" in this experiment:

MAKING THE SOAPS:
1. The lye solutions were made using distilled water. A lye discount/superfat of 5% was used.
2. The ambient temperature in my kitchen during this experiment ranged form 73 degrees to 75 degrees Fahrenheit.
3. Each soap was made with 170 grams of oil.
4. To bring the soaps to trace, I handmixed with a wooden chopstick for 1 minute, used a stick blender until a light trace was achieved, then handmixed with a wooden chopstick to ensure that trace was reached and that no separation was occuring.
5. All soaps were covered with a layer of plastic film, then covered with 2 towels, and insulated for 15 hours. Gel phase was not obvious. Insulation was removed after 15 hours and most soaps were unmolded at the 24 hour mark. Others were left to harden up enough to safely remove without much damage.

TESTING THE SOAPS:
1. To test for pH, I used 60 grams of distilled water and 2 grams of grated soap
2. I used paper pH test strips rated to test 0 - 14 (garden soil testing quality)

3. For lather testing,  I wet the bar under my kitchen faucet for 5 seconds, rolled the bars between my hands for 10 seconds, and then took a picture of the results. I dried my hands thoroughly between tests to try to keep to more consistent results.My tap water is softened through a reverse osmosis Kinetico system, so hard water results may vary.
And yes, I absolutely did zap test each soap for tongue neutrality. And I still have a tongue! That works!

And now...for the moment we've all been waiting for...

SINGLE OIL SOAP EXPERIMENT: PHASE ONE RESULTS
I've tried to add bits of info about each oil along with my results...please forgive me for being unable to research all the oils equally...I do have a business and a family to attend to, and I found myself getting carried away with the research for this undertaking as it was. I would prefer to be distracted by anything soapy as opposed to laundry. And cooking. And dishes. And mopping. And laundry. And dishes. And cooking...you get the point.


1. TALLOW is the rendered fat derived from cow, sheep, or deer. It is one of the oldest triglycerides used to make soap, due to it’s wide availability and that it can be rendered at home. It has a long shelf life and does not require refrigeration, however oxidation will occur if not sealed in an airtight container. It is a high source of Vitamin D.

Chemical Composition:

Palmitic: 26%

Stearic: 14%

Myristic: 3%

Oleic: 47%

Palmitoleic: 3%

Linoleic: 3%

Linolenic: 1%

SOAPCALC assigns these numbers to Saponified Tallow (Sodium Tallowate):

SAP Value: 0.143

Hardness: 58

Cleansing: 8

Conditioning: 40

Bubbly Lather: 8

Creamy Lather: 50

Iodine: 45

INS: 147

Palmitic: 28%

Stearic: 22%

Myristic: 6%

Oleic: 36%

Linoleic: 3%

Linolenic: 1%

WHAT DO THOSE NUMBERS EQUATE TO IN SOAP?: Tallow produces a hard white bar with a rich and stable creamy lather. It is considered mildly cleansing, moisturizing and conditioning.  When saponified, it produces a high percentage of Oleic acid, the main component of Olive Oil and in human sebum. Saponified Tallow is also composed of a high Palmitic and Stearic acid content. It’s used in many shaving soap formulas.

NONSOAPY FACTS: Its use is mostly limited to soap and animal feed, but it’s also a staple in Native American cooking, especially in Pemmican. It was often used for candle making before a larger variety of waxes became more widely available. Deer tallow is used as the base ingredient in medicinal salves made in Germany used by athletes to prevent blisters. It has been used as a lubricant in industrial applications and weaponry, as flux in soldering, and as the main ingredient of many leather conditioners. It currently has found a use as biodegradable motor oil. 

MY RESULTS: Tallow has a strong odor before being soaped, but only a faint odor after. It was able to be unmolded and was tongue neutral in 24 hours. It traced in 1 minute 30 seconds with the oil temperature being 90* and the lye temperature being 100*. It produced a very hard, white bar that crumbled with the use of a stamp, and so I decided to nix the stamp and carve the letters/numbers into the soaps with a clay tool. The lather left a lot to be desired - very few small bubbles that left my hands feeling dry. It tested with the highest pH of 12.

2. RICE BRAN  is the oil extracted from the germ and inner husk of rice. It is similar in composition to peanut oil, with a high smoke point. It is used in many Asian countries for culinary purposes. A wax is made from the oil and is used as a substitute for carnauba wax in cosmetics and other applications. It contains the highest amount of the antioxidant γ-oryzanol, which has been the topic of some medical research regarding menopause and cholesterol.

Chemical Composition:

Palmitic: 22%

Stearic: 3%

Myristic:1 %

Oleic: 43%

Linoleic: 26%

SOAPCALC assigns these numbers to Saponified Rice Bran Oil:

SAP Value: 0.128

Hardness: 26

Cleansing: 1

Conditioning: 69

Bubbly Lather: 1

Creamy Lather: 25

Iodine: 110

INS: 70

WHAT DO THOSE NUMBERS EQUATE TO IN SOAP?:  Rice Bran will produce a semi-hard mild soap that is very conditioning with a creamy lather.

MY RESULTS: Rice Bran oil was soaped at 75* and the lye at 115*. It took 2 minutes to trace, and a total of 39 hours to be unmolded and tongue neutral. It is a darker off white, close to yellow color.  It produced more of a lotion-like lather with no bubbles, was hard to rinse off, though my hands felt smooth and soft afterwards. It pH tested at 10

3. OLIVE OIL is derived from the fruit of the Olea Europaea tree by pressing the entire Olive by mechanical or chemical means. The fruit is pressed into a paste, and then the oil is extracted by either pressure or centrifuge. Virgin Grade means only pressing was used to extract the oil (no chemicals). Refined Grade means that a chemical, such as charcoal, was used to neutralize acid content (and strong flavor). Pomace Grade means the solid substance left over from pressing that still contains some oil is blended with Virgin grade. Pure Olive Oil labeling indicates a blend of Refined and Virgin grades. Refined Olive Oil and Pomace Olive Oil are the most common used for soapmaking, however any grade Olive Oil can be used. If stored properly, it has a shelf life of about one year.

Chemical Composition:

Palmitic: 11%

Stearic: 4%

Myristic: 3%

Oleic: 72%

Linoleic: 10%

Linolenic: 1%

SOAPCALC assigns these numbers to Saponified Olive Oil (Sodium Olivate):

SAP Value: 0.135

Hardness: 17

Cleansing: 0

Conditioning: 82

Bubbly Lather: 0

Creamy Lather: 17

Iodine: 85

INS: 105

WHAT DO THOSE NUMBERS EQUATE TO IN SOAP?: Olive Oil produces a semi-soft bar prior to cure. However, after a cure of 6 months to one year, Olive Oil  (Castille) soaps are very hard. Depending on the type of Olive Oil used, color of the soap will range from barely off white to green. It is considered to be the mildest of soaping oils, and is considered to be helpful in skin cell regeneration as well as having superior ability to penetrate into the skin.

NONSOAPY FACTS: Olive Oil has a wide range of uses besides its obvious culinary use, and is highly unlikely to cause an allergic reaction. It is used in medicine and has many benefits for gastrointestinal disorders. Scientific research is testing to see what effects it has on cancer because it has been found to reduce oxidative damage to DNA and RNA. Olive Oil contains natural phenols, which have antioxidant properties, and is a source of at least 30 phenolic compounds. It is used in religious consecrations, as a lamp oil, a lubricant, and in replacement of machining oil.

MY RESULTS: Contrary to anecdotal evidence, Olive Oil traced quicker than expected at 3 minutes 30 seconds when soaped at 75* for the oil and 110* for the lye. It produced a nice hard, barely off white, tongue neutral bar in 24 hours. Lather wa very minimal, with tiny bubbles and was hard to rinse off, though my skin felt soft and supple afterwards. It pH tested at 9.

.

4. LARD is the rendered fat from pigs. It is also one of the oldest triglycerides used to make soap, due to its wide availability and that it can be rendered at home. It has a long shelf life and does not require refrigeration, however oxidation will occur if not sealed in an airtight container. “Leaf Lard” is the highest quality Lard, coming from the fat around the kidneys and loin of the pig.

Chemical Composition:

Palmitic: 26%

Stearic: 14%

Myristic: 2%

Oleic: 44%

Linoleic: 10%

Linolenic: 0%

SOAPCALC assigns these numbers to Saponified Lard (Sodium Lardate):

SAP Value: 0.141

Hardness: 42

Cleansing: 1

Conditioning: 52

Bubbly Lather: 1

Creamy Lather: 41

Iodine: 57

INS: 139

Palmitic: 28%

Stearic: 13%

Myristic: 1%

Oleic: 46%

Linoleic: 6%

WHAT DO THOSE NUMBERS EQUATE TO IN SOAP?:  Lard adds conditioning properties and a creamy lather. It is considered a “hard oil” and will produce a semi-hard bar of soap with mild cleansing ability.

NONSOAPY FACTS:  Lard is mainly used for culinary purposes, but can be used to produce biofuel, and is used as cutting fluid in machining. It is prized for its use in piecrusts, biscuits, and other baking.

MY RESULTS: Lard had the stongest aroma before being soaped, and after.After a week, that scent has dissipated, but is still faintly there. The oil was soaped at 120* with the lye at 125*. It took 4 minutes to reach trace. It was unmolded and tongue neutral in 24 hours. The lather was a bit greasy and resulted in lots of tiny bubbles. It pH tested at 11. It is just barely off white with a creamy appearance.

5. SAFFLOWER is a thistle-like plant. The oil is extracted from the seeds. It is one of the oldest crops known to man and has been used as a red and yellow dye for centuries. The flowers are sometimes used as a substitute for Saffron. A high-oleic version is available, which tends to have a longer shelf life. The one soaped for this experiment was the cheaper and more common high-linoleic version.

Chemical Composition:

Palmitic: 2%

Oleic: 15%

Linoleic: 75%

SOAPCALC assigns these numbers to Saponified Safflower Oil:

SAP Value: 0.137

Hardness: 7

Cleansing: 0

Conditioning: 90

Bubbly Lather: 0

Creamy Lather: 7

Iodine: 145

INS: 47

WHAT DO THOSE NUMBERS EQUATE TO IN SOAP?:  Safflower Oil will render a soft conditioning soap.

MY RESULTS:  Safflower was soaped at 75* and the lye at 110* and took 4 minutes and 30 seconds to trace. It began separating in the mold, but I was able to hand stir it back to emulsion...which tells me it could have used longer than 4.5 minutes of stirring to reach a true solid trace. It was tongue neutral and unmolded in 24 hours, producing a surprisingly hard close to white bar. It's lather was very slimy and hard to rinse off, and had lots of tiny bubbles, It pH tested at 11.

 6. SOYBEAN is extracted from the seed of the Glycine Max plant. It has a myriad of uses, but mostly for culinary purposes. Soybean oil is a drying oil, which means that it will slowly harden upon exposure to air, forming a flexible, transparent, and waterproof solid. It is used to make ink and paints.

Chemical Composition:

Palmitic: 11%

Stearic: 5%

Oleic: 24%

Linoleic: 50%

Linolenic: 8%

SOAPCALC assigns these numbers to Saponified Soybean Oil:

SAP Value: 0.136

Hardness: 16

Cleansing: 0

Conditioning: 82

Bubbly Lather: 0

Creamy Lather: 16

Iodine: 131

INS: 61

MY RESULTS:  Soybean oil was soaped at 75* with the lye at 110*. It traced in 2 minutes, though separated in the mold. I was able to bring it back to emulsion by hand stirring in the mold. It took a full 5 days to unmold and test tongue neutral.The bar is off white in color and just hard enough to not leave dents in when pressed with a finger. It produced tons of lather and left my skin soft. It pH tested at 9.

7. AVOCADO is derived from the fruit of the Persea Gratissima tree. It is high in Vitamin A, E and D, as well as chlorophyll. It is similar to Olive Oil in chemical composition and uses. Virgin Avocado Oil is very green, as opposed to Refined Avocado Oil, which is more of a pale yellow color. If stored properly, it has a shelf life of about one year.

Chemical Composition:

Palmitic: 20%

Stearic: 2%

Oleic: 58%

Linoleic: 12%

SOAPCALC assigns these numbers to Saponified Avocado Oil:

SAP Value: 0.133

Hardness: 22

Cleansing: 0

Conditioning: 70

Bubbly Lather: 0

Creamy Lather: 22

Iodine: 86

INS: 99

WHAT DO THOSE NUMBERS EQUATE TO IN SOAP?:  Avocado Oil adds conditioning properties and a creamy lather to your soap. It will produce a soft soap with mild cleansing properties.

NONSOAPY FACTS:  Avocado Oil is mainly used for culinary and cosmetic uses. It has moisturizing and regenerative properties. It is also used as a lubricant.

MY RESULTS: Avocado oil was soaped at 75* with lye at 100*. It reached trace in 2 minutes, though it separated in the mold and was able to be stirred back to emulsion by hand. It was unmolded and tongue neutral in 24 hours.It is a slightly off white bar with dense foam like lather - a little hard to remove, but left my skin feeling very smooth, soft, and supple.

8. PALM is derived from the pulp from the fruit of the Elaeis Guineensis tree. It has a high Beta-Carotene content, lending to its natural reddish color. It is commonly referred to as “Vegetable Tallow”. Refined, bleached, and deodorized Palm Oil (RBD) is used more often in soap, as it renders a whiter bar with no detectable odor. Approximately 3% of the world’s Palm Oil use is in the soapmaking and cosmetic industry, though it’s use may be on the decline due to environmental issues (http://www.rspo.org/). Palm Oil is the base ingredient in Sunlight and Palmolive dish soaps. It is very heat stable with a long shelf life, as it is slow to oxidize.

Chemical Composition:

Palmitic: 44%

Stearic: 5%

Myristic: 1%

Oleic: 39%

Linoleic: 10%

SOAPCALC assigns these numbers to Saponified Palm Oil (Sodium Palmate):

SAP Value: 0.142

Hardness: 50

Cleansing: 1

Conditioning: 49

Bubbly Lather: 1

Creamy Lather: 49

Iodine: 53

INS: 145

WHAT DO THOSE NUMBERS EQUATE TO IN SOAP?:  Palm Oil produces a very hard white bar of soap that is mildly cleansing and very conditioning with a creamy lather.

NONSOAPY FACTS:  Palm oil is a staple cooking oil in Africa, South Asia, and Brazil. It is also used in many processed foods due to its lower cost and shelf-life stability. It was used with Naphtha to create Napalm, used during World War II as an incendiary device. It is used to create biodiesel fuel.

MY RESULTS: Palm oil was soaped at 100* with the lye at 120*, and traced in 2 minutes. It was unmolded and tongue neutral in 24 hours. It produced a very hard white bar. The lather was nonexistent and left a waxy feeling on my skin after rinsing. It had a very slight odor. It pH tested at 9.

9. CORN OIL is extracted from the germ of the Maize plant. It is expeller pressed and then solvent extracted with Hexane or Isohexane. It is then treated with an alkali and then processed through steam distillation for refinement (refined, bleached, deodorized). In a bushel of corn, there is 1.55 pounds of oil (2.8% by weight).

Chemical Composition:

Palmitic: 12%

Stearic: 2%

Oleic: 32%

Linoleic: 51%

Linolenic: 1%

SOAPCALC assigns these numbers to Saponified Corn Oil:

SAP Value: 0.137

Hardness: 14

Cleansing: 0

Conditioning: 84

Bubbly Lather: 0

Creamy Lather: 14

Iodine: 117

INS: 69

WHAT DO THOSE NUMBERS EQUATE TO IN SOAP?:  Corn oil produces a soft soap with conditioning properties and a stable lather.

 

NONSOAPY FACTS:  Besides its culinary uses, Corn Oil is used for biodiesel, animal feed, salve, paint, rustproofing for metal surfaces, inks, textiles, nitroglycerin, medicines, and insecticides.

MY RESULTS: Corn Oil was soaped at 75* with the lye at 110*, and reached trace in 2 minutes. It took 5 days to be able to unmold it without much damage and test tongue neutral. It produced a off white, close to yellow bar with a strong odor of (guess what!) Corn, with tons of bubbles, It was hard to rinse off and left a greasy felling on my skin. It pH tested at 9. 

10. SUNFLOWER is compressed from the seeds of the Helianthus annuus flower. It is used as an emollient in cosmetics and for culinary purposes. It can be mixed with diesel as a alternative fuel method. There is a high-oleic version available with a purported longer shelf life. I soaped the cheaper and more common version that is higher in linoleic acid.

Chemical Composition:

Palmitic: 7%

Stearic: 4%

Myristic: 1%

Oleic: 16%

Linoleic: 70%

Linolenic: 1%

SOAPCALC assigns these numbers to Saponified Sunflower Oil:

SAP Value: 0.135

Hardness: 11

Cleansing: 0

Conditioning: 87

Bubbly Lather: 0

Creamy Lather: 11

Iodine: 133

INS: 63

WHAT DO THOSE NUMBERS EQUATE TO IN SOAP?: Sunflower soap produces a very soft, mild, conditioning soap.

MY RESULTS: Sunflower Oil was soaped at 75* with the lye at 110*. It took 4 minutes to reach trace. It took 5 full days to be able to unmold, and it was still the consistency of cream cheese or play doh. It produced a slightly translucent off white bar. The lather was more lotion-like. It was very slimy and a bit hard to rinse. It pH tested at 9.

11. GRAPESEED oil is pressed from the seed of grapes (obviously?) and is a by-product of wine making. It is used for cooking, cosmetics, and is sprayed on raisins to help them retain their flavor.

 

 

Chemical Composition:

Palmitic: 8%

 Stearic: 4%

Oleic: 20%

Linoleic: 68%

SOAPCALC assigns these numbers to Saponified Grapeseed Oil:

SAP Value: 0.133

Hardness: 12

Cleansing: 0

Conditioning: 88

Bubbly Lather: 0

Creamy Lather: 12

Iodine: 121

INS: 66

WHAT DO THOSE NUMBERS EQUATE TO IN SOAP?:  Unsaponified Grapeseed Oil is mildly astringent and used as a moisturizer for oily skin. In soap, it produces a soft bar with mild cleansing and very conditioning properties and a slightly creamy lather.

MY RESULTS: Ugh. Grapeseed Oil gave me such trouble. It took 3 minutes and 30 seconds to trace...and then separated in the mold, but was recovered with hand stirring. It was soaped at 75* with the lye at 105*. It took the longest to remove from the mold. I removed it after 5 full days, but it is the consistency of a glue stick. It could still be squished into a ball, if I so desired. I do not. It has a pale green color to it and a strong odor, almost like an oil that is going rancid, The lather was barely lotion like with no bubbles whatsoever. My hands felt tight after washing. It pH tested at 10.

12. CANOLA is also known as Rapeseed and is derived from the seed of the Brassica napus L. plant. It has the lowest saturated fat of any oil. The name was coined from “CANadian Oil – Low Acid” to avoid a connection to the word “rape” in “Rapeseed”. It is made by slightly heating the seeds and then crushing them. It is then refined using Hexane and then the crude oil is refined using water precipitation and organic acid, "bleaching" with clay, and deodorizing using steam distillation. It’s shelf life, once opened, is 4 – 6 months.

Chemical Composition:

Palmitic: 4%

Stearic: 2 %

Oleic: 61%

Linoleic: 21%

Linolenic: 9%

SOAPCALC assigns these numbers to Saponified Canola Oil:

SAP Value: 0.133

Hardness: 6

Cleansing: 0

Conditioning: 91

Bubbly Lather: 0

Creamy Lather: 6

Iodine: 110

INS: 56

WHAT DO THOSE NUMBERS EQUATE TO IN SOAP?: Canola oil renders a very soft soap that is conditioning with a creamy lather. It can be substituted as a small portion of your soft oil formulation.

NONSOAPY FACTS: It is mostly used for culinary use and biodiesel production., but has also found uses in candle making, lipstick, and newspaper inks. It was used as lamp fuel for centuries, and as a metal cleaner and lubricant during World War II. The rapeseed blossom is a major source of nectar for bees. The leftover meal from the seeds after the oil has been extracted is used as cattle feed.

MY RESULTS: Canola was sopaed at 75* with the lye at 100* and traced in 2 minutes. It did start to separate in the mold and was recovered with hand stirring. It was tongue neutral and unmolded in 24 hours. It produced a hard off white bar with lots of thin, dissipating bubbles. It was a bit hard to rinse off and had a strong odor. It pH tested at 10. 

 13. COCONUT oil is derived from the meat or kernel of the Cocos Nucifera fruit, either through a dry process where the kernel is dried over a flame (copra) then pressed with solvents (such as Hexane) and then refined, or through a wet process where raw coconut meat is boiled in water, and then put through a centrifuge or other mechanism to extract the oil. Refined, bleached, and deodorized Coconut Oil (RBD) is made from the copra (coconut kernel) and is used mainly is cooking, commercial food processing, and for cosmetic, industrial, and pharmaceutical purposes. It is the surfactant from which cocamidopropyl betaine, cocamide MEA and cocamide DEA are derived. Virgin Coconut Oil is manually pressed from either the raw meat or the milk is put through a mechanism to separate the fat from the liquid. It takes around 1000 mature Coconuts to produce 70 liters of Coconut Oil. It is very heat stable with a long shelf life, as it is slow to oxidize.

Chemical Composition:

Palmitic: 9%

Stearic: 3%

Myristic: 19%

Oleic: 8%

Linoleic: 2%

Lauric: 48%

SOAPCALC assigns these numbers to Saponified Coconut Oil (Sodium Cocoate):

SAP Value: 0.183

Hardness: 79

Cleansing: 67

Conditioning: 10

Bubbly Lather: 67

Creamy Lather: 12

Iodine: 10

INS: 268

WHAT DO THOSE NUMBERS EQUATE TO IN SOAP?:  Coconut Oil makes a very hard white bar with high cleansing properties and lots of bubbly lather. Most soapers recommend using it at 30% or less of your formula to avoid the drying property of a highly cleansing soap, though it can certainly be used at a higher rate with a higher superfat to accommodate for the dryness. Coconut Oil soaps will lather in any water condition, including hard water and salt water.

NONSOAPY FACTS:  Coconut Oil has many uses throughout the world. It is a staple cooking oil in many countries. It can be used as a skin and hair moisturizer, as an alternative fuel source and component of biodiesel fuel, engine lubricant, and as an herbicide. The Lauric acid can be removed and used for industrial and medical purposes. Fractionated Coconut Oil (Capric/Caprylic Triglyceride) is the medium chain fatty acids of Coconut Oil and is used in cosmetics, medical applications, and as a carrier oil for fragrance.

MY RESULTS: Coconut Oil was soaped at 75* with the lye at 110* and took 3 minutes to trace. It produced an incredibly hard white bar of soap with tons of bubbles, thick lather, and was easy to rinse off, though it left my skin feeling tight. It pH tested at 9.

14. PEANUT oil is derived from grinding peanuts to extract the oil. It is best known for its culinary use. It is also a source of biodiesel fuel.

Chemical Composition:

Palmitic: 8%

Stearic: 3%

Oleic: 58%

Linoleic: 26%

SOAPCALC assigns these numbers to Saponified Peanut Oil:

SAP Value: 0.137

Hardness: 11

Cleansing: 0

Conditioning: 82

Bubbly Lather: 0

Creamy Lather: 11

Iodine: 92

INS: 99

WHAT DO THOSE NUMBERS EQUATE TO IN SOAP?: Peanut Oil will produce a soft bar with a stable lather and conditioning properties.

MY RESULTS: Peanut oil was soaped at 75* with the lye at 110* and took 3 minutes to trace. It has a very strong scent similar to Sesame oil. It produced a super hard bar of off white soap. The lather was foam like and easy to rinse off, though my skin felt very tight afterwards. It pH tested at 10.

15. CASTOR oil is derived from the seed of the Ricinus communis plant. Besides soap, it's uses include lubricants, plastics, laxatives, cosmetics, brake fluid, paint, dyes, coating, inks, etc. The castor seed contains the toxic protein known as ricin, which is denatured and made inactive by heat during the oil extraction process.

Chemical Composition:

Oleic: 4%

Linoleic: 4%

Ricinoleic: 90%

SOAPCALC assigns these numbers to Saponified Castor Oil (Sodium Castorate):

SAP Value: 0.128

Hardness: 0

Cleansing: 0

Conditioning: 98

Bubbly Lather: 90

Creamy Lather: 90

Iodine: 86

INS: 95

WHAT DO THOSE NUMBERS EQUATE TO IN SOAP?: Castor Oil alone would make a very soft, sticky bar. It is used mainly for its incredible bubble making quality and as a very conditioning component. It is usually used between 5-10% in soap, but as high as 20% in a shampoo bar.
MY RESULTS: Castor oil was soaped at75* with the lye at 110*. It was the fastest to trace at 1 minute 10 seconds! It produced a super hard, slightly off white bar. The soap was very tacky after getting wet, similar to a glue stick, with thin tiny bubbles. It was a bit hard to rinse off, but left my hands feeling smooth and soft. It pH tested the lowest at 8.

So to summarize:
The hardest bars were: TALLOW, COCONUT, PALM, PEANUT, and CASTOR
The softest bars were: GRAPESEED, SUNFLOWER, CORN, SOYBEAN, and RICE BRAN
The highest pH was: TALLOW
The lowest pH was: CASTOR
The quickest trace was: CASTOR (then TALLOW)
The slowest trace was:  GRAPESEED (then SAFFLOWER)
Whitest bar: TALLOW
Most yellow/off white bar: RICE BRAN
Soap that felt the most drying: PEANUT (then GRAPESEED, COCONUT)
Soap that felt the most "moisturizing":  AVOCADO (then RICE BRAN, OLIVE, SOYBEAN)
Strongest Odor: LARD (then CANOLA, GRAPESEED, CORN)
Oils that began to separate in the mold: SAFFLOWER, SOYBEAN, AVOCADO, GRAPESEED, and CANOLA

So did you learn anything new from this experiment? 
 
 In PHASE TWO, I will recheck pH, weight, and lather. I will also note any changes in the soaps physical appearance or odor that may lead to rancidity. I will also include blind study results. Anything else you would like to see?

Oooh, this is so exciting!

Of Blossom, Leaf, Root, and Stem ~ Herbal Infusions

Infusion of Woad

The essence of all beings is earth

The essence of earth is water

The essence of water is plants

The essence of plants is the human being.

Chandogya, from the Upanishads

There is magic in sowing a seed, nurturing the sprout, reaping the leaf (or blossom, root, or stem), utilizing its essence in some aspect, recycling the waste, and starting the cycle over. There is power in that cycle - creation, abundance, a reverence for and a connection to the Earth. Putting your hands in the soil is like roots reaching out to partake in the divinity that is our existence.

And when the sun is high, or when the moon is full, my roots reach out to participate in that magical cycle.

Modern humans are like busy little bees - work, after school sports, dance class, laundry, gym, dishes, traffic…the never-ending battle against time and circumstance (that’s another type of cycle that my roots do not reach out for). My point being is that many people think they have no time to think about the many uses of herbs, much less grow them. It takes time and effort to not only grow the herb, but to educate yourself on its uses and contraindications. And depending on where you live, Mother Nature may or may not play fair where weather and climate are concerned. You may not know of a local herb grower or farmer's market. However, the awesomeness known as “The Internet” can make your herbal dreams a reality! There are plenty of reputable sources from which to procure organics herbs, seeds, resins, powders, oils, and the like and have it waiting at your door – you know, the door you rush through with hands full of groceries and kids dangling from your hip.

And now we get to where this post is going: Herbal Infusions!

I think when many people think of Herbs, they think of their culinary uses – and while taste alone is reason enough to appreciate them, Herbs have myriad purposes and methods of use. I like to find ways to incorporate herbs into all aspects of my life, whether it is cooking with them, treating a sore throat or a stomachache, or in one of my soap or salve formulas. A really simple way to incorporate herbs into your daily life is through Herbal Infusion. An infusion is the process of extracting the flavor, color, or medicinal properties of an herb into an oil. Extracting into alcohol or glycerin is called a “Tincture” or “Extract”, whereas a water infusion is usually referred to as a tea or decoction. Herbal infusions can be used for cooking and for salve, lotion, or soap making. Tinctures are usually used for medicinal purposes. Extracts are normally for cooking or perfumery. Teas and decoctions have a wide variety of uses, from consumption to fabric dyeing. If scent is your goal, I would use an essential oil. In general, infusions will not lend any scent to your soap or body product.

Essential Oils are a different matter all together, and infusing oil with an herb does not render an “essential oil”. I see this term used incorrectly all the time and wanted to clear that up.

For the purposes of this blog, we’ll discuss using Herbal Infusions for soapmaking and for the use in other leave-on body products, like salves, ointments, balms, lotions and creams.

Herbal Infusions are a pretty simple process:

1. Fill clean, sterile Mason jar  (or recycled spaghetti sauce jar, or pickle jar, or…) with dry or fresh herb. A general proportion guideline is 250 g Dried or 500 g Fresh Herb : 750 ml Oil
2. Pour oil of choice (Olive, Rice Bran, Safflower) into jar over herbs.
3. Set jar in cool dark cabinet for 6 weeks or so, shaking every now and then to redistribute plant matter that settles to the bottom.
4. After 6 weeks, strain plant matter out of oil and pour infused oil into clean sterile jar for later use.

Some sources will suggest heating your oils with your herbs for a faster infusing method – just be sure that you do not overheat the oils or the plant matter. Many herbs, especially those with blossoms, are very volatile and heat can destroy any of the properties your were trying to capture. Also, heat can break down chemical constituents of vegetable oils, leaving them vulnerable to oxidation and rancidity. Some roots and barks require heat to truly extract any of the useful constituents of the plant matter. If your purpose is to extract the color from the herb and to use it in a soap formula right away, the low heat method may suit your purpose just fine. If it’s the nutrients you’re looking to extract, I highly suggest the cold infusion method described above. Keep your infusions tightly sealed in a dark and cool temperature stable environment. Most infusions, when properly made and stored, should keep at least a year, but it's best to use them within 6 months. (If they start smelling like rancid oil, dispose of them in a compost heap or your preferred environmental manner.)

To use an herbal infusion in your soap formula, you would sub out a portion of the same oil in your recipe (if your infusion is Olive Oil based, you would sub out some Olive Oil in your soap recipe) for the same amount of Infused Oil. The amount will be determined by your purpose. 

For Example:

Soap Recipe: 

300 g Olive Oil

100 g Castor Oil

300 g Coconut Oil

300 g Palm Oil

For a purple colorant, you could substitute 10% of your total oils for Alkanet Root Infused Olive Oil, so your recipe would now look like this:

200 g Olive Oil

100 g Alkanet Root Infused Olive Oil

100 g Castor Oil

300 g Coconut Oil

300 g Palm Oil

Some herbs you may find useful in soap and body product making:

The information below is in no way to be misconstrued as medical advice, and the advocation of herbs in this information is in reference to topical use only. Please educate yourself on these herbs before using them.

Alkanet Root (Batschia Canescens): Also known as Dyer’s Bugloss. Renders a Grey – Purple result in Cold Process Soap. Rattan jot (Onosma Hispidum) can be substituted.

 Annato Seed (Bixa Orellana): Renders a bright gold to orange shade in Cold Process Soap.

Yellowdock Root (Rumex Crispus): Renders anywhere from a pale flesh/peach tone to a bright pink in Cold Process Soap.

Infusions of Yellowdock Root, Annatto Seed, and Alkanet Root

Borage (Borago Officinalis): Rich in polyunsaturated fats and very emollient. It is used for the treatment of eczema and other chronic skin conditions.

Evening Primrose (Oenothera biennis): The stem, leaf, and flower are used in infusions for eczema and itchy skin conditions.

Chamomile (Matricaria Recutita): Renders a pastel yellow in Cold Process Soap. In salves and creams, it soothes itchy skin and eczema. Chamomile is in the ragweed family, so if you have a ragweed allergy, you should avoid Chamomile.

Lemon Balm (Melissa Officinalis): An ointment made with the Infusion of Lemon Balm is used to relieve the sting of insect bites.

Infusions of Evening Primrose, Lemon Balm, Chamomile, and Borage

Comfrey Root and Leaf (Symphytum Officinale): Also known as Knitbone or Boneset. The leaves render a green color and the roots a brown color in Cold Process Soap. Infused oil of leaves is used for sprains and bruises. It is useful in the treatment of psoriasis and acne.

Red Clover (Trifolium Pratense):  Used to treat skin conditions.

Infusions of Red Clover Blossoms and a synergistic blend of Comfrey, Nettle, and Borage

Burdock Root (Arcticum Lappa): Useful for skin conditions such as acne, infections and rashes. It is better used in salves, ointments, balms, and creams.

Calendula (Calendula Officinalis): Also known as “Marigold”, the flowers will render a pastel to bright yellow in Cold Process Soap. The infused oil is used to make salves, ointments, and lotions., and is known to be an excellent remedy for the skin. It is antiseptic, and useful with healing cuts, scrapes, burns, and fungal conditions.

Cayenne (Capsicum Frutescens): Use an infusion of the pepper in a massage oil or ointment for rheumatic conditions. Do NOT use on broken skin, children, or fragile skin!

Chickweed (Stellaria Media): An infusion of the aerial parts is used to soothe irritated skin.

Dandelion (Taraxacum Officinale): Infusion of the leaf renders a green shade to Cold Process Soap.

Indigo Root (Baptisia tinctoria): A little goes a long way! Renders a blue – navy/black color in Cold Process Soap.

Lady’s Mantle (Alchemilla Vulgaris): A known wound healer due to its astringent properties. The infusion is used in balms, salves, and ointments.

Madder Root (Rubia Tinctorum): Renders a dusty rose to maroon shade in Cold Process Soap.

Marshmallow (Althaea Officinalis): An infusion made from the root is used for boils and abcesses. An infusion made from the flowers is used for inflamed skin. Common Mallow (Malva Sylvestris) has similar uses. They are both emollients.

Mullein (Verbascum Thapsus): astringent and emollient, an infusion of the fresh flowers is said to be an effective bactericide.

Neem (Azadirachta Indica): Also known as the Margosa Tree. An infusion of the leaves is useful with acne, eczema, and psoriasis. Use it in lotions, salves, and other leave-on products.

Nettle Leaf (Urtica Dioica): Renders a nice green in Cold Process Soap. An ointment made from the infusion is used as a treatment for eczema.

Paprika (Capsicum Annuum): Renders an orange shade in Cold Process Soap.

Plantain (Plantago Major): Repairs damaged tissue.

Rosemary (Rosmarinus Officinalis): Use the infusion to make a lotion for achy muscles.

Sandalwood (Santalum Album): Red Sandalwood Powder will produce a pink – maroon/purple shade in Cold Process Soap. (This infusion will likely need heat to extract any color from the wood or powdered Sandalwood)

Self-Heal (Prunella Vulgaris): It’s astringent nature makes it useful for healing wounds. Studies show it may be effective against a broad range of bacteria.

Spirulina (Algae): Renders a green to a green blue color in Cold Process Soap.

St. John’s Wort (Hypericum Perforatum): The leaves render a yellow color in Cold Process Soap. An infusion of the oil is useful in creams for minor wounds and burns, and a cream can be made to relieve cramps and neuralgia. Some people are very sensitive to St. John’s Wort and it may interact with prescription medicines, even when used topically. Check with your doctor before using this!

Turmeric (Curcuma Longa): Renders a gold – orange hue in Cold Process Soap.

Witch Hazel (Hamamelis Virginiana): An infusion of the leaves is useful for making a lotion to soothe cysts and other inflamed skin conditions. An infusion of the bark makes for a good ointment for inflamed skin conditions.

Woad (Isatis Tinctoria): Renders a gray to green/blue shade in Cold Process Soap.

Now that you have the hang of Herbal Infusions, I’ll share a simple salve recipe to make use of your new concoctions! As with all my recipes given, I will give it to you in proportions, or parts, so that you can adjust the size to suit your needs, whether that be in ounces or grams.

BASIC SALVE RECIPE

This basic salve recipe can be used for a gazillion purposes, like an ointment for bug bites, a cuticle treatment, a chapped skin soother, skin protectant…the possibilities are endless! Just use an herbal infusion that suits the purpose that the salve will be used for.

3 Parts Infused Oil

1 Part Beeswax (Or Vegan Wax Source of your choice, like Candelilla )

For example:

1oz Comfrey Infused Oil

1 oz Borage Infused Oil

1 oz Nettle Infused Oil

1 oz Beeswax

1. Melt the beeswax in a double boiler or crock pot on low – but let me warn you, beeswax can be a total pain to clean up, so you may want to use one designated solely for this task.

I find that the small 6 oz crock pots like the ones made for warm dips and appetizers work great for melting beeswax (if it has a high/low setting). I use mine only to melt beeswax to avoid cross contamination.

2. When wax is melted, add your Infused Oil and stir until it looks fully incorporated.

3. Pour into sterile jars and allow to cool before putting the lid on..

It really is pretty simple, right?

And the beauty of it is, if you find the salve is too “stiff” for your purpose (too much wax), you can melt it down and add a little more oil to get the consistency you want. If the salve is too “loose” (too much oil), you can melt it and add a (tiny bit) more beeswax! Just remember, a little beeswax goes a long way!

Feeling really herbally inspired? (I know you are!)

Try adding a few milliliters (or drops, depending on the size of your batch) of Essential Oil to your melted beeswax and oil mixture before pouring into jars to enhance the herbal properties! Or to make this a lip balm, try adding a little cocoa butter (sub out 1 part of the oil) to the mix before pouring it into your containers. Consistency of the salve is a personal preference and is determined by the purpose of the salve, so experiment until you get the texture, firmness, and slip that you want. Make sure to take notes so that you can recreate your masterpiece!

FOR YOUR DRIED HERB NEEDS, I RECOMMEND MOUNTAIN ROSE HERBS

FOR YOUR PLANT & SEED NEEDS, I RECOMMEND RICHTERS

Both Mountain Rose Herbs and Richter’s have great information about herbs and their uses on their website.

FOR MORE INFORMATION ON HERBS AND THEIR USES:

http://www.nlm.nih.gov/medlineplus/herbalmedicine.html

http://botanical.com/botanical/mgmh/mgmh.html

The Ritual Bath (and why you should make it a habit)

I’m obsessed with medieval European history and culture, but there are some modern conveniences that I think our medieval ancestors would covet, and which I would find a terrible torture to give up in the pursuit of romantic medieval nostalgia:

Bar Soap

Running Water

Electric Water Heaters

The average medieval commoner throughout Europe probably didn’t bathe very often, if in fact, ever. The ancient Greeks and Romans were known for their bathhouses fed by aqueducts and springs, but the rest of society in the Middle Ages had varying degrees and methods of hygiene. Soap was somewhat of a luxury, as well as a lot of work, and when your entire day was spent working in a field or at some other hard labor, it probably didn’t matter much whether you smelled of violets or cow manure. Existence and survival won out over any luxury. Before it was a standard concept that disease was spread through germs and unhygienic conditions, it was thought that bathing was immoral, a gateway to sin, idle waste of time, or that the body odor was a “repellent to disease” (It was a repellant, for sure, but of disease?). 

Without the benefit of central heat, the modern water heater, or a vessel big enough to submerge an adult, baths may have seemed more work than they were worth.

Imagine this, if you will:

You had to heat water over a fire, or just deal with the cold.

You had to pour buckets of the heated water into a large basin or barrel until full, which could mean many, many buckets.

You had to strip down to your chemise (nudity was immoral!) in a room with mud as insulation, hopefully near the fire.

…And by the time you actually get into the wash basin, the water is cold. 

 Not to mention that the woman of the house would have been responsible to obtain the water from the well or stream, heat it over the fire for the man of the house who bathed first, hopefully get to bathe herself in the same water now cold and filthy, I’m sure, and then finally bathe the children (hence the phrase “Don’t throw the baby out with the bathwater”). And, as if that wasn’t enough, wooden basins were lined with sheets of linen to protect your nether regions from splinters, which meant the removal of a huge soaking wet sheet after your “relaxing” bath.

That scenario does not encourage habitual bathing.

Let’s stray from the hygienic purpose of bathing for a while and explore a few of the rituals so closely connected to our quest for cleanliness.

The Ritual of Baptism: The Rite of Baptism is directly related to cleanliness, in this case, cleanliness of the soul or spirit. Whether by being submerged in a natural stream or river, or by consecrated liquid being poured over the head, the effect is the same: the ritualistic washing away of sin.

Judaic Ritual Bathing (Mikveh): The Jewish Orthodox ritual of the mikvah is observed in preparation before the Sabbath, after the menstrual period, and to purify the bather before spiritual practice. The Bridal Mikveh symbolizes the spiritual rebirth of the bride and groom.

Hoodoo Ritual Bathing: If good luck is sought, one must bath with upward strokes to the body, and if removal of evil is the intended purpose, one must bathe with downward strokes to the body. To dispose of the ritual bath water, it is to be thrown to the East before sunrise accompanied by a prayer.

Japanese Ritual Bathing: Misogi means “ritual purification with water”. Bathing after a funeral is another ritualized bathing observed in certain Japanese customs.

The Greeks and Romans, as well as many other cultures, bathed before battle, before religious ceremony, and for healing purposes.

Since time indefinite, people of all cultures have submerged their bodies in natural bodies of water to purify, sanctify, and to worship deities and elements associated with water. Many mythical Gods and Goddesses are associated with bathing and water rituals, most notably Hygieia, the Greek Goddess associated with health, cleanliness, and sanitation, and from which the word “hygiene” is derived.

A few other Gods and Goddesses associated with water that you may or may not have heard of:

Apam Napat - Hindu God of Fresh Water, such as in rivers and lakes

Boann - Irish Goddess of the River Boyne

Chalchiuhtlicue - Aztec Goddess of water, lakes, rivers, seas, streams, horizontal waters, storms, and baptism.

Ganga - Hindu Goddess of the Ganges River

Glanis - Gaulish God associated with a healing spring

Grannus - Celtic God associated with spas, healing thermal and mineral springs

Lir - Irish God of the sea

Mami Wata - Yoruba pantheon of water spirits associated with healing and fertility

Mímir - Norse God of the Spring of Mímisbrunnr, which gives the drinker wisdom and  from which Odin sacrificed an eye to drink from

Naiades - Greek Fresh Water Nymphs

Nephthys - Egyptian Goddess of Rivers

Nerthus -  Norse Goddess of Lakes, Springs, Holy Waters

Oshun - Yoruba deity of rivers, beauty, sensuality.

Sinann - Irish Goddess of the River Shannon

Sequana - Gaulish Goddess of the River Seine

Suijin Shinto - Japanese God of Water

Sulis - Celtic Goddess of the hot springs at Bath, England

Tlaloquetotontli - Aztec Goddess of the rivers.

Vedenemo - Finnish Goddess of Water

Volturnus - Roman God of the Waters

Hygieia by Gustav Klimt

In modern times, we have moved away from ritualistic style baths and opted for the quick shower solely for cleansing purposes. We have been conditioned by the phrase “Cleanliness is next to Godliness”. We grew up with mothers that forced us into the bath before bed, whether we thought we needed it or not. Media inundates us with ads for soaps and cleaning products to protect us from germs.

But I believe the strongest influence comes from our own brains, connected by the spider web of time to the knowledge that water is more than two hydrogen atoms bonded to an oxygen atom.

When we feel that we need an escape, to unwind and relax, to rid ourselves of our mundane stressors – we hear the siren’s call – we feel the need to reconnect with water, and through it be cleansed.

Why do we need a good long soak in the tub when we’re sick, either physically or mentally?

Why do we “need a shower” after a mentally stressful day?

Why, when vacations are discussed, is it always towards the ocean or pools that our compass points?

Why is it so relaxing to sit with your feet in a stream or pond?

It’s the ritual washing away of the negative.

It’s the ritual absorption of the positive.

MELUSINE’S RITUAL BATH
Turn down the lights
Light a candle or two
And let the mundane wash down the drain
 

In a large bath of warm water (almost too warm) add:

1 cup Sea Salt, Epsom Salt, or Dead Sea Salt (Purifies and detoxifies, reduces swelling)

¼ cup Honey (Humectant)

¼ cup Coconut Milk (Skin softening)

20 drops of Lavender Essential Oil (Sedative, promotes skin cell regeneration)

10 drops of Clary Sage Essential Oil (Releases nervous tension and depression, sedative)

5 drops of Vetiver Essential Oil (Calming, tonic for dry skin)

Soak until the water becomes tepid

The legend of Melusine can be read by clicking the picture below
(let me know if you recognize her image!)

I'm up to something...again...

Seems that my constant urges of creativity and knowledge can not be assuaged much these days...

I'm either thinking of some new creation, researching some new creation, or, in fact, creating some new creation.

These days, my creations all involve Soap. And Alchemy. Or Soap Alchemy.

Formulating a soap recipe, color, scent, and name all feed my need to create. Researching the different oils and how they react in soap slakes my thirst for knowledge. But sometimes, I just need a good hands-on experiment to pull it all together.

And so was birthed...

THE SINGLE OIL SOAP EXPERIMENT.

Let me prepare you with a bit of personal history. You may not see the relevance to soapmaking at first, but hopefully I can tie it all in and entertain you in the process...

I wasn't a brain in high school. As a matter of fact, I was more concerned with boys and being cool than with grades. I never even took chemistry. I failed Algebra (twice). I was not about to ruin my sky-high big hair for physical education (Class of 1991, baby! I contributed to the depletion of the ozone layer with jumbo cans of Aquanet!). It's not that I lacked intelligence - I just didn't put forth the effort. (Did I lack maturity? Yes. Forethought? Yes. The gift of prophesying into the future? Yes.). Luckily, my high school offered a Cosmetology course through a vocational school, and I jumped at the chance. I always loved being creative and doing hair and makeup, so Cosmetology was right up my alley. Besides, it was better to look good than to feel good (wasn't that the motto of the 80's?). Had it not been for Art class and Cosmetology, I would've flunked out of school. If only they had offered classes like Creative Writing, Arts and Crafts, Music, Cosmetology, Folk Lore, History (minus the wars), and the Mysteries of the Metaphysical, I would have been Valedictorian of my class. True Story. 

Immediately out of high school, I got married and had my older son. I was 18 when he was born, so obviously I didn't have a lot of time for soul searching, much less the time to "follow my bliss", so to speak.

Fast forward a few years (and a divorce and second marriage), and I find myself pregnant with my second son. I had been doing hair for about 9 years, was managing a day spa and salon...and I was unfulfilled. 

The cosmetology field is very physically superficial. 

Lets be honest: Looks Count. 

We all know this, but the "Pollyanna" in me wants it to not be so. The need to look cool, and hip, and trendy, and glamorous everyday is a bit much. Who wants to go to a hairstylist that looks like she just rolled out of bed, threw her hair in a ponytail, and ran out of the house? And any mother knows, after many a sleepless night, weight gain, hormonal changes, and the stress and worry of a newborn (and an older son), who's feeling glamorous? I had to have surgery while I was pregnant, resulting in a high risk pregnancy, so I was out of work for quite a while. Fortunately, my husband's income was sufficient that I could leave the salon world and stay home with my kids. 

Being a Stay-At-Home-Mom is a double edged sword:

Edge 1 - Cute babies that benefit from the nurturing that only a mama can provide = happy kids = happy mama.

Edge 2 - Cute babies that need constant nurturing from mama...and mama loses herself in the care of others and forgets how to be herself, or have an adult conversation, and feels guilty that she wants to have adult conversations, and loses her own direction and focus, and just becomes "Mom".

But, as with most of life, it's the struggles that change our path...

THE SPIRITS ARE RUTHLESS WITH THE PATHS THEY CHOOSE.

In 2000, after the birth of my second son, I was really in need of "something". I wasn't sure what that "something" was, but I needed it. During my search for that "something", my sister and I visited a local metaphysical shop. They had sign up sheets for upcoming classes they were offering in the store, one being "Herbal Cosmetology". I had been interested in Aromatherapy and read a few books before this, but Herbal Cosmetology (and the smell of Nag Champa burning on the counter) just seemed to cause my stagnant little heart to flutter. This was exactly what I was in search of.

 The Herbal Cosmetology teacher was a master herbalist with a unique teaching style, and we hit it off immediately. She just happened to also be a soapmaker! She offered me an apprenticeship, and my love for all things herbal bridged the gap between the mundane, superficial physical and the deeper, spiritual connection with the Earth. .

Are you still there?

Tap-tap...Is this thing on?...Tap-tap...

So the point of that "autobiography" was to let you know how I came to soapmaking and how, without the benefit of a chemistry class, I strive to understand the more scientific aspects of soapmaking. And this is where the SINGLE OIL SOAP EXPERIMENT comes in to play.

We soapmakers know that, in order to make soap, we must mix a fatty acid (Vegetable Oil or Animal Fat) with a strong alkali (NaOH - Sodium Hydroxide or KOH - Potassium Hydroxide) to produce a sodium salt, known as soap, through the process of saponification - the base hydrolysis of triglycerides. Basically, we mix an oil with a lye solution, an exothermic process (gelling during saponification) occurs where the alkali and fatty acid meld into one, and we get soap. I'm sure there are way more scientific ways to explain the process, but for most of us, that's the important part. 

We also know that different oils react differently for different reasons. And, we know that some oils seem more prone to rancidity than others, resulting in DOS (Dreaded Orange Spots). Most of us use more than one oil in our soapmaking, either referencing anecdotal evidence or someone else's results, either in book, web, or social forums (Hey fellow SMFers!). And because we use more than one oil, it's hard to troubleshoot issues that may come up due to the multiple variables in our formulas.

I find myself referencing a particular experiment when I'm debating a certain oil. The Zen Soaps Single Oil Soap Swap is pretty revolutionary in my eyes. I had not seen an experiment like this, set out and accomplished by a fellow soapmaker. I was recently directed to The Curious Soapmaker's blog where a similar experiment was undertaken.

These experiments set off my creative faculties like you wouldn't believe (My younger self wouldn't have believed it either, but hey...). So here's the "something" that I'm up to:

I will take 15 commonly used and easily obtained oils (found at most grocery stores), create 15 single oil soaps from them, and document the differences and any conclusions henceforth and forthwith (Those word are fancy, and I wanted to use them. I doubt I used them properly, but this isn't a grammar blog.).

Each soap will be 360 gram batch with a 5% superfat (no additives). I will make them using distilled water in a 30% lye solution, pouring them into individual silicone molds, insulated and hopefully, gelled. I will have 2 soaps from each oil - one will be stored in a cool, dark, dry area with good airflow. The other will be stored in a damp bathroom cabinet. Neither will be wrapped. I will assign them each a number, for blind study purposes, and have at least 3 testers give me their unbiased assessments. I will also lend my "professional opinion" in a separate assessment.

Here is a list of the oils I will be using in my experiment:

AVOCADO
CANOLA
CASTOR
COCONUT
CORN
GRAPESEED
LARD
OLIVE (Refined)
PALM
PEANUT
RICE BRAN
SAFFLOWER
SOYBEAN
SUNFLOWER
TALLOW

Here are the parameters on which each soap will be judged. Assessments will be made on Day 1 after unmolding, Day 7, Day 30, and so on:

pH

COLOR
TEXTURE

ODOR

LATHER

HARDNESS/WATER SOLUBILITY

 I will continue to update you with my findings here on this blog, or on the thread started on the SoapMakingForum.

Do you have any preconceived notions about these oils and how they will react? 

Do you wager on some becoming rancid? 

Do you now truly believe I have lost my mind, or at least what was left of it?

And with that my soapy friends, I leave you with titillated minds...discuss amongst yourselves...

How DOM PERIGNON contributed to my MONASTERY 10th Century Wine Soap

What does Dom Perignon have to do with soap you ask? 

Soap, specifically? Nothing. 

MONASTERY ~ 10th Century Wine Soap?

Well, that's a long story, but I'll keep it short and sweet (just like I like my wine)...

 In medieval Europe, beer and ale were the libations that crossed social barriers, with both common folk and nobility enjoying either potation. In areas where grapes were grown, such as France and Italy, wine was consumed by both social classes alike. However, in areas of northern and eastern Europe, where grapes did not grow, wine was an expensive luxury to all but the wealthiest. As Christianity spread across Europe, wine became a necessity, rather than a luxury,  in order to celebrate the Ritual of the Mass, where in Catholic dogma, the wine is transubstantiated into Christ's blood. In order to keep the church supplied with wine for this ceremony, the Benedictine monks became one of the largest producers of wine, owning vineyards across France and Germany. The Carthusians, Templars, and Carmelites followed suite. To this day, monks and wine are united in one ambition. To get the masses wasted. Just kidding!

And this is where Dom Perignon comes in...

Dom Perignon was a Benedictine Monk from France. (c. 1638–14 September 1715)

Who woulda thunk it?

I certainly don't think of solemn monks quietly pursuing a pious life tending to their vineyards when I think of Dom Perignon. In the eloquent words of the wise and noble Fiddycent:

"If there’s a genie in the bottle of that Dom Pérignon
Ima drink till I get to that bitch"

The "real" Dom Perignon is turning somersaults in his tomb every time those lyrics are spoken.

I think the "Monastic Dom" would be happy to know, however, that I diligently uphold the mantra of "Cleanliness is next to Godliness", and have transubstantiated wine into soap!

For you fellow soapmakers out there, my process is quite simple. For a 4 pound soap batch, I simmer 12 ounces of Cabernet Sauvignon down to 6 ounces and add it at trace, subtracting 6 ounces from my liquid upfront when I mix my lye solution. The effect of using wine in soap is similar to that of soaping with beer - the sugars in the wine lend to more bubbles. The reason for simmering, or lightly boiling the wine is to burn off as much alcohol as possible before mixing with the lye solution. Alcohol can cause soap to seize in the pot, surely causing words to spew forth from your mouth the likes of which have never befallen a monk's ears. 

3rd Century DRUID ~ An Ode to Woad

This whole day have I followed in the rocks

   And you have changed and flowed from shape to shape

First as a raven on whose ancient wings

   Scarcely a feather lingered, then you seemed

A weasel moving on from stone to stone

   And now at last you wear a human shape

A thin grey man half lost in gathering night

~ "Fergus and the Druid" by William Butler Yeats 

Shaman. Sage. Poet. Priest. Healer. Wanderer. Philosopher. Teacher. Conjurer. Druid. 

In pre-Christianized Celtic Britain, long before the tales of King Arthur and Merlin, there existed a priesthood known as the Druids. Much of what we know about the Druids was written by the dictator of the Roman republic, Julius Caesar, after his invasion of Britian. 

According to the writings of Julius Caesar, the Druids "know much about the stars and celestial motions, and about the size of the earth and universe, and about the essential nature of things, and about the powers and authority of' the immortal gods; and these things they teach to their pupils."

He also writes that the Druids were concerned with "divine worship, the due performance of sacrifices, private or public, and the interpretation of ritual questions" and that their belief system dictated that "the souls do not perish, but after death pass from one to another", believing that debts incurred during one lifetime could be repaid in the next.

The Druids were known for communing with nature, holding such things as Oak trees and Mistletoe sacred, and creating shrines in groves or near springs. As healers, their knowledge of herbs and their uses, blended with their reverence to nature, led them to hold plants in high esteem. 

Herbal lore suggests that the Druids held to a 13 part system of plant usage:

1. The use of plants as food (Wheat, Bean)

2. The use of plants as drink, elixir, or tonic (Heather, Burdock, Dandelion)

3. The use of plants as clothing (Flax, Woad)

4. The use of plants as a means of altered consciousness (Mugwort)

5. The use of plants in medicine (Mistletoe, Vervain, Selago, Samolus)

6. The use of plants for annointing (Primrose, Vervain)

7. The use of plants in rituals (Garlic, Clove)

8. The use of plants in lincense (Agrimony, Juniper)

9. The use of plants in lustration (ritual cleansing) (Agrimony)

10. The use of plants in spells (Fern)

11. The use of plants in charms and talismans (Betony, Mandrake)

12. The use of plants in offerings (Meadowsweet, Vervain)

13. The use of plants for divination (Yarrow)

Not much is known of the Druids after the 2nd century, leading scholars to believe that the Druids either were absorbed into another system of belief or that their meetings and teachings became more clandestine. I would like to think it was more the latter. There are still those that hold to a Druidic system of belief and practice, such as The Order of Bards, Ovates, and Druids. (http://www.druidry.org/)

And since I like to think that the Druids carried on their mysterious way of life far after the Romans left Britain and their accounts were left to scholarly hypotheses, I envisioned a soap that paid homage to the Druids long after the last written word of their existence...and while I won't be sharing all my secret enchantments, I will share the ingredients.

DRUID ~ 3rd CENTURY SOAP

Made with Olive Oil, Coconut Oil, Palm Oil, Castor Oil 

Scented with Essential Oils of Juniper Berry, Lavender, and Cedarwood

And colored with Woad powder